TOP Heat-Pump Solutions: Under-Floor Heating or Radiators

When homeowners switch to an air-source heat pump, the next question is almost always:
"Should I connect it to under-floor heating or to radiators?"
There is no single "winner"—both systems work with a heat pump, but they deliver comfort in different ways.

Below we line up the real-world pros and cons so you can pick the right emitter the first time.

1. Under-Floor Heating (UFH) — Warm Feet, Low Bills

Pros

• Energy-saving by design
  Water circulates at 30-40 °C instead of 55-70 °C. The heat pump's COP stays high,
• seasonal efficiency rises and running costs drop by up to 25 % compared with high-temperature radiators.
• Supreme comfort
  Heat rises evenly from the whole floor; no hot/cold spots, no draughts, ideal for open-plan living and kids playing on the ground.
• Invisible & silent
  No wall space lost, no grill noise, no furniture-placement headaches.

Cons

• Installation "project"
  Pipes have to be embedded in screed or laid over the slab; floor heights may rise 3-10 cm, doors need trimming, build cost jumps €15-35 / m².
• Slower response
  A screed floor needs 2-6 h to reach set-point; setbacks longer than 2-3 °C are impractical. Good for 24 h occupancy, less so for irregular use.
• Maintenance access
  Once pipes are down they are down; leaks are rare but repairs mean lifting tiles or parquet. Controls must be balanced yearly to avoid cold loops.

2. Radiators — Fast Heat, Familiar Look

Pros

• Plug-and-play retrofit
  Existing pipework can often be reused; swap the boiler, add a low-temperature fan-convector or oversize panel and you're done in 1-2 days.
• Rapid warm-up
  Aluminium or steel rads react within minutes; perfect if you only occupy evenings or need on/off scheduling via smart thermostat.
• Simple servicing
  Each rad is accessible for flushing, bleeding or replacement; individual TRV heads let you zone rooms cheaply.

Cons

• Higher flow temperature
  Standard rads need 50-60 °C when outside is -7 °C. The heat pump's COP falls from 4.5 to 2.8 and electricity use climbs.
• Bulky & décor-hungry
  A 1.8 m double-panel rad steals 0.25 m² of wall; furniture must stand 150 mm clear, curtains can't drape over them.
• Uneven heat picture
  Convection creates a 3-4 °C difference between floor and ceiling; warm head / cold feet complaints are common in high-ceiling rooms.

3. Decision Matrix — Which Meets YOUR Brief?

House situation	Primary need	Recommended emitter
New build, deep renovation, screed not yet laid	Comfort & lowest running cost	Under-floor heating
Solid-floor flat, parquet already glued	Quick install, no build dust	Radiators (oversized or fan-assisted)
Holiday home, occupied weekends only	Fast warm-up between visits	Radiators
Family with toddlers on tiles 24/7	Even, gentle warmth	Under-floor heating
Listed building, no floor height change allowed	Preserve fabric	Low-temperature fan-convectors or micro-bore rads

4. Pro Tips for Either System

1. Size for 35 °C water at design temperature – keeps the heat pump in its sweet spot.
2. Use weather-compensation curves – the pump automatically lowers flow temperature on mild days.
3. Balance every loop – 5 min with a clip-on flow meter saves 10 % energy yearly.
4. Pair with smart controls – UFH loves long, steady pulses; radiators love short, sharp bursts. Let the thermostat decide.

Bottom Line

• If the house is being built or gut-renovated and you value silent, invisible comfort plus the lowest possible bill, go with under-floor heating.
• If the rooms are already decorated and you need fast heat without major disruption, choose upgraded radiators or fan-convectors.

Pick the emitter that matches your lifestyle, then let the air-source heat pump do what it does best—deliver clean, efficient warmth all winter long.

TOP Heat-Pump Solutions: Under-Floor Heating or Radiators